MARCUS GAVIUS APICIUS

Marcus Gavius Apicius was a Roman gastronomer, cook, and writer.
He probably lived at the turn between the end of the Republic and the first decades of the Empire, under Augustus (27 BC–14 AD) and Tiberius (14–37 AD).

A lover of splendor and luxury, he was famous for his opulent and luxurious banquets and the refinement of his recipes.

He was both loved and criticized—it often happens... Seneca in his Letters to Lucilius, Consolatio ad Helviam frequently cites him as a negative example of dissoluteness and vice. Pliny called him an "ingenious inventor of every refinement."

His treatise "De re coquinaria," an extraordinary collection of recipes, influenced and dominated Roman cuisine and was passed down through the centuries.

It is amusing to see how, throughout history, other characters, cooks, with the name Apicius can be found. In 161 BC another Apicius lived who, contrary to ours, was opposed to food waste. Another namesake who lived during the time of Emperor Trajan and was remembered for discovering a method to keep oysters fresh.

It seems that Apicius became a sort of neologism synonymous with "refined palate" or "wealthy and experimental cook" used as a nickname, in subsequent centuries, to indicate a gourmet and master chef.

Let us return to Marcus Gavius Apicius, the original. He was a Roman knight, belonged to a wealthy family of high society, inherited an immense fortune and chose to dedicate himself to worldly life and cuisine. His biography consists of certain news and unconfirmed reports—after all, two millennia have passed. There are also amusing, jovial anecdotes that somehow characterize the Italian way of taking life.

It is certain that he was a protagonist of worldly life, a sort of "The Great Beauty" ante litteram, who had great culinary knowledge and continuously experimented with new recipes with an original use of spices. Finally, he died by suicide believing himself poor, because with a patrimony of only 10 million sestertii, today that would be about 60 million euros...

Pliny recounts that Drusus, son of Emperor Tiberius, took from Apicius the fashion of refusing cabbage tops because they were considered food for the poor. It is a marginal episode, but it demonstrates how Apicius had influence even over members of the royal family. He was an influencer ante litteram.

Here are some amusing anecdotes that show how Apicius was not just a spoiled rich man, but a character who oscillated between culinary genius and caricature of an obsessive gourmet.

In the end, precisely these stories have made his name immortal, much more than the political affairs of the many forgotten senators of his time.

Pliny recounts that Apicius invented a method to obtain enormous and tasty livers: he fed pigs with dried figs, and then had them killed while drinking a mixture of wine and honey (mulsum). From this custom derives the Latin term "ficatum," from which the Italian "fegato" (liver). In practice, a gastronomic fashion left its mark on our language!

According to a tradition reported by Athenaeus, Apicius heard that in Minori, in Campania, there were shrimp of exceptional size. He immediately set sail for the coast, ready for the banquet. Upon arrival, he found them identical to those from his home. Disappointed, he returned to Rome cursing the "false alarm." A scene that recalls a modern tourist obsessed with the "authenticity" of the product...

Another "fashion" attributed to Apicius was serving flamingo tongues at the table. Today it would seem exotic and uninviting to us, but for the Romans it was a rare luxury: a way to tell guests "see how far my trade reaches."

HISTORICAL CONTEXT

He lived his best years at the time of the nascent Roman Empire, when Rome was the superpower of the era. Augustus effectively became the "prince" who governed the State, even though republican institutions survived, and became "Pater Patriae," father of the fatherland and guarantor of peace. Augustus was succeeded by his stepson Tiberius, designated as heir.

Tiberius was a very reserved emperor and his reign was characterized by political and economic crises. Tiberius retired to Capri, the praetorians assumed a very important political role, and a serious credit crisis in 33 AD required state intervention with public loans—does this remind you of something?

From Augustus to Tiberius, here are the main events:

• 31 BC – Battle of Actium: Octavian defeats Antony and Cleopatra, end of civil wars.
• 27 BC – Octavian becomes Augustus: beginning of the Principate.
• 23 BC – Crisis and extraordinary powers: Augustus receives tribunicia potestas and imperium proconsulare.
• 2 BC – Augustus proclaimed Pater Patriae.
• 14 AD – Death of Augustus at Nola. Tiberius succeeds.
• 17 AD – Tiberius initiates trials for lese majesty: darker political climate.
• 23 AD – Sejanus concentrates the praetorian cohorts in the Castra Praetoria: his power grows.
• 26 AD – Tiberius retires to Capri, leaving power to Sejanus.
• 31 AD – Fall of Sejanus: arrest and execution, wave of purges.
• 33 AD – Economic crisis: credit crunch, the State intervenes with public loans.
• 37 AD – Death of Tiberius at Misenum, Caligula comes to power.

The contrast between the emperor and the Senate reached very high levels with Caligula, an eccentric, cruel, and mocking emperor. He used his beloved horse as an instrument of mockery to emphasize his omnipotence and the uselessness of the Senate.

The intellectual and culinary work of Apicius, like the baths, aqueducts, and roads, is an indirect testimony to the power of Rome. The generated prosperity allowed a substantial part of the population to move beyond a diet of mere sustenance to seek particular recipes and ingredients, aimed at improving taste and their own health.

DE RE COQUINARIA manuscript Urb. Lat. 1146

It is the collection of ancient Roman cooking recipes left by Apicius. The manuscript that completely transmits the 500 recipes is the oldest complete witness of the work.

It was created in the second half of the 9th century (Carolingian age), probably in the abbey of Tours. In the 15th century it arrived in the ducal library of Urbino, owned by the Dukes of Urbino: Federico da Montefeltro and his successors.

It is now part of the Urbinate Collection of the Vatican Apostolic Library, consisting largely of Federico da Montefeltro's library, which flowed into the Vatican in 1657, almost four centuries ago.

It is the reference manuscript for modern editors and a most precious testimony of the Apician tradition which, without this text, would have almost disappeared.

It is conceived as a technical manual, with wide margins, often corrections and additions, written in mixed Latin with vulgar or popular forms, however precious decorations are not lacking to embellish the aesthetics, testimonies of the Carolingian cultural renaissance.

RECIPES

The recipes are concise and lack quantities, so presumably written for an audience of professional cooks.

The main seasoning of Roman cuisine was "garum," a very strong sauce of fermented fish, whose recipe is not contained in the manuscript, probably because it was very common.

Here are some recipes in Latin and Italian:

Tyropatinam (Milk and Honey Pudding)

Latin: Tyropatinam sic facies: lac, ova, mel, modicum vini, in patellam compones. In furnum mittes vel ad vaporem coques.
Italian: Thus you will make tyropatina: milk, eggs, honey and a little wine; arrange in a pan. Cook in the oven or steam.

Ius in Pisce Elixo (Sauce for Boiled Fish)

Latin: Pepper, lovage, oregano, onion, honey, vinegar, fish sauce, oil, wine. Bring to a boil. When it boils, thicken with starch, pour over the hot fish.
Italian: Pepper, lovage, oregano, onion, honey, vinegar, fish sauce, oil, and wine. Bring to a boil, thicken with starch, and pour over the hot fish.

Ficatum (Fig-Fattened Liver)

Latin: Prepare ficatum as follows: fatten the pig with figs, then suffocate it with honeyed wine. When the liver has grown, add pepper, fish sauce, bay leaf, cook and serve.
Italian: This is how you make "ficatum" liver: fatten the pig with figs, then suffocate it with honeyed wine. Season with pepper, fish sauce, and bay leaf, cook and serve.

Ova Spongia Ex Lacte (Sweet Milk Omelet)

Latin: Ova spongia ex lacte: break eggs with milk, add honey, a little oil. Arrange in a pan, place in the oven.
Italian: Spongy eggs with milk: beat the eggs with milk, add honey and a little oil. Pour into a baking dish and bake.

Isicia Omentata (Meatballs in Fat Netting)

Latin: Isicia omentata: pepper, lovage, wine with fish sauce, nuts, laser root. Grind these, mix with meat, make meatballs. Wrap in fat netting, let them boil.
Italian: Meatballs wrapped in fat: pepper, lovage, wine with fish sauce, nuts, and laser root; grind, mix with meat and form meatballs. Wrap them in fat netting and boil.

Aliter Lenticulam (Lentils in Sauce)

Latin: Aliter lenticulam: pepper, cumin, coriander, dill, onion, fish sauce, oil, wine. When it boils, add starch.
Italian: Lentils in another way: pepper, cumin, coriander, dill, onion, fish sauce, oil, and wine. Bring to a boil, thicken with starch.

Pisum (Pea Soup)

Latin: Pisum: cook peas with onion, coriander, celery. Season with pepper, fish sauce, oil.
Italian: Peas: cook the peas with onion, coriander, and celery. Season with pepper, fish sauce, and oil.

Ius in Pisce Assato (Sauce for Roasted Fish)

Latin: Ius in pisce assato: pepper, cumin, celery seed, onion, honey, vinegar, fish sauce, wine, oil. Bring to a boil.
Italian: Sauce for roasted fish: pepper, cumin, celery seeds, onion, honey, vinegar, fish sauce, wine, and oil. Bring to a boil.

Porcellum Hortolanum (Piglet with Herbs)

Latin: Porcellum hortolanum: into the piglet's belly, put celery, coriander, leek, dill, savory. When cooked, serve with fish sauce.
Italian: Gardener's piglet: put celery, coriander, leek, dill, and savory into the piglet's belly. Cook and serve with fish sauce.

Pullus Farsilis (Stuffed Chicken)

Latin: Pullum farsilem: into the chicken, put stuffing of pepper, pine nuts, laser, fish sauce, eggs, oil. Cook in the oven.
Italian: Stuffed chicken: fill the chicken with pepper, pine nuts, laser, fish sauce, eggs, and oil. Bake in the oven.

Caseus Cum Melle (Cheese with Honey)

Latin: Caseum cum melle: cut fresh cheese, mix with honey. Serve.
Italian: Cheese with honey: cut fresh cheese, mix it with honey. Serve.

Ius in Ovis Hapalis (Sauce for Boiled Eggs)

Latin: Ovis hapalis: pepper, lovage, honey, vinegar, fish sauce. Season the boiled eggs with these.
Italian: Boiled eggs: season with pepper, lovage, honey, vinegar, and fish sauce.

Aliter Pullum (Sweet and Sour Chicken)

Latin: Pullum: pepper, cumin, coriander, honey, vinegar, fish sauce, wine, oil. Cook the chicken with these.
Italian: Chicken: pepper, cumin, coriander, honey, vinegar, fish sauce, wine, and oil. Cook the chicken with these ingredients.

Aliter Turdos (Stuffed Thrushes)

Latin: Stuff the thrushes with pine nuts, pepper, fish sauce. Cook in the oven.
Italian: Thrushes: stuff them with pine nuts, pepper, and fish sauce. Cook in the oven.

Ius in Lacertam (Sauce for Pike)

Latin: Ius in lacertam: pepper, lovage, onion, honey, vinegar, fish sauce, oil, wine. Bring to a boil.
Italian: Sauce for pike: pepper, lovage, onion, honey, vinegar, fish sauce, oil, and wine. Bring to a boil.

Aliter Dulcia (Honey Sweets)

Latin: Dulcia: fry thin sheets of dough in oil, drizzle with honey and serve.
Italian: Sweets: fry thin sheets of dough in oil, drizzle with honey and serve.

Lovage is a perennial aromatic plant, similar to celery, with glossy, jagged leaves. It has an intense aroma, halfway between celery and parsley, with warm and spicy notes. The cookbook uses many spices from the most remote corners of the known world, some of which are now forgotten.

Enjoying cheese with honey has a rather ancient history.

APICIUS AS A TESTIMONY OF THE HISTORY OF ITALIAN CUISINE

Barilla, in its Gastronomic Library, preserves a facsimile of the manuscript De Re Coquinaria, belonging to the same exclusive and limited series that we offer on our e-commerce www.antiquus.it

For the delivery of the Apicius De Re Coquinaria facsimile to the Barilla Gastronomic Library, and for the public presentation - attended by publisher Barbara Bertoni, Gianluigi Zenti, Director of Academia Barilla, Domenico Vera, Professor of Roman History at the University of Parma, Giovanni Ballarini, National President of the Italian Academy of Cuisine, and Andrea Fabbri, Dean of the Food Science Course at the University of Parma - a dinner was organized with three recipes inspired by Apicius, here they are if you want to try them:

1. Chickpea mousse

Chickpeas were one of the most consumed legumes in ancient Rome: Apicius mentions them among the main ingredients of soups and creams (Ospreon). In this version, they become a light and spicy mousse, enriched with olive oil and a pinch of cumin, recalling the oriental aromas that reached Rome through Mediterranean routes.

2. Chicken in the style of Frontinus

Chicken appears in numerous variations: boiled, roasted, seasoned with sweet and sour sauces. In this proposal, it recalls the tradition "in the style of Frontinus" — that is, with aromatic herbs (coriander, rue, wild celery), honey, and wine. A balance of sweetness and herbal freshness that well reflects the Roman taste for intense contrasts.

3. Tyropatina

The most famous dessert in Apicius's cookbook: a cream of milk, honey, and eggs, cooked in a bain-marie or oven. It was served as a patina, that is, a compact dish, and can be considered the ancestor of our puddings or flans. In this modern reinterpretation, the tyropatina becomes an inverted cream with mascarpone and fresh cheese, combining Latin tradition with a smoother texture closer to contemporary tastes.

This preamble serves to explain the importance of the long tradition of Italian cuisine, capable of crossing centuries and improving by embracing new raw materials introduced with the territorial expansion of the Roman Empire, then with geographical explorations, with contacts with the Arab and Eastern world, and finally with the discovery of new continents.

Consider the eggplant brought by the Arabs to Europe as a bacteriological weapon, the eggplants of that time were toxic if eaten raw, or the tomato, brought from America, and the importance this vegetable has in Italian cuisine.

CONCLUSIONS

The recipes of Apicius contained in De re coquinaria are not just pages of cuisine: they are the living story of the power of Rome, of an Empire that knew how to transform the gifts of the Mediterranean and spices from afar into dishes that celebrated greatness and refinement.

From that heritage, the Italian tradition was born, which still lives today in our kitchens, in our traditions, in the desire for conviviality and sharing, in the agri-food companies that bring Italian flavors to the world: excellences that continue the millennial history of quality, passion, and creativity.

With the facsimile of De re coquinaria, you enter this uninterrupted thread of history:

it is not just any book, but a jewel of culture and identity,
a bridge between past and future,
a symbol of the taste and civilization that belongs to us.

Discover it on Antiquus.it and make a piece of ancient Rome your own: a work to cherish, display with pride, and pass down, just as today's great Italian companies pass down the art of food and good living to the world.